Start by gathering your tools, and eyeing up the victim.

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Required is a rachet, 12mm bit, extension bit, small flat head screw driver (longer the better, avoids any nasty incidents when removing door handle cover), phillips screw driver and a pair of pliers. A rag comes in handy too.

The victim, ignore the grey door handle, I only recently went from winders to electric!

Put your flat head screw driver under one cover, there are 6 clips on this bit of the door, so be careful, longer the better & take your time.

For people with winding windows, skip this step. With the handle now out we can remove the electric window switches plug, there is a small clip that you press and it comes straight out. You can notice in this image also the clip on the handle as it goes to the back of the door.

Skip this step if you have electric windows. To remove the window winder, put a flat head screw driver inbetween the plastic washer type thing, and push it in, the small retaining clip should fall off. to put it back on, put the clip on the winder and push the winder back on.

Using a T25 star bit, we can remove the handle, there is one bolt each side, do the one closest to the wing mirrors firstly, then when removing the second press the clip that we spoke about in the above step, the whole handle should now fall out.

Removing the inner door handle is easier than it seems, to avoid scratching the screw cover use a cloth and just push the bottom of the cover, the top should now come out enough for you to pull it out with your finger. You will need to remove the screw behind it as well.

Almost there, time to remove the wing mirror controller, it just simply pulls off of the frame of the door.

Underneath the door there are two drainage bolts, both plastic, and both can just simply be pulled out with a pair of plyers, no need to rachet them out as being plastic they are a pain in the ass.

The entire door card should now just unclip from the door.

When it's out enough you can then disconnect the door handle cable, a clip on the left hand side pushes in, releasing the entire mechanism.

Sit back and admire the inner door card.

Removing the speaker is simply a T20 star bit, and 4 screws. The plug then unclips allowing you to change it with any other 6x9.

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With the outer card now off we can remove the inside door card, begin by pressing in the bung which covers the door handle cable.

Remove all the bolts.

In this step I have removed the bungs which cover these holes, the image should show you approximately where abouts they are. We need to now lower the window until we can see the bolts retaining them through the 2 holes we have created.

This is the 'guiding' clip for the glass, by raising the window to the top and grabbing our long screw driver we can push this through, be careful, as the glass is made to shatter.

The camera gets put down now as the work gets trickier. You now need to lower the runners, while either having the window taped to the door frame around it or by getting a 2nd person to hold it. It should now come free, allowing you to lower the runner completely while having the window still fully up.

The door lock may require to be removed, or atleast released from the door itself (as the inner door card is clipped to just about everything in the door one way or another. This is simply 3 small star screws + a phillips screw on the handle itself.

The inner door should now break free, possibily breaking the clips on the cover over the lock - it is next to impossible to get a clean inner door card removal. You should now be left with this.

Ready to unplug and reattach either a new electric door card or whatever you see fit.

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This guide enables you to make some basic step forwards in the process of alarm installation. I must warn you the guide is provided as is and must not be conducted with the thought of a warranty or any other support from Fiestamk6.com, I will try my best to assist but I will not guarentee anything.

1. Is it positive, negative or a combination?

The fiesta mk6 is a negative central locking car.

2. Where do I 'tap into' the wires for fitting a remote central locking kit?

The GEM module is the most sensible place, it is located under the drivers steering wheel, by removing the dash trim (with the cubby hole for lose change + the ODB2 port) with a phillips screw driver (x5 screws). It is then located at the top right, with 5 plugs going into it. 2 screws release the unit for better access.

3. Which plugs control central locking?

The grey & the green plug.

4. On a 3 door, which wires are lock and unlock?

99.9% of the time, black and orange control lock & black and green control unlock.

5. On a 5 door, which wires are lock and unlock?

99.9% of the time, black and orange control lock & black and white control unlock.

6. What if my boot popper inside the car stops working, after attempting to fit an after market alarm?

There is currently no fix for this issue. Some users have ended up running a new relay, along with custom wiring to the boot popper mechanism.

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The Mk6 & Facelift seats are among the easiest of any car to remove. 4 Torx T50 bolts hold down the seat, 1 in each corner. 2 are pictured below.

Left hand side near handbrake shroud.

One near the seatbelt.

Pre-tensioners simply unplug. Orientation is crucial otherwise it will not clip back in correctly. Cars with heated seats or seat air bags will have more plugs. Take care to label.

* Phillips Screw Driver

* Flat Head Screw Driver

* Torx T50

Begin by removing the windscreen pillar trims, these simply pull out. The clips can come off so make sure to rescue them with a pair of plyers out of clips on the car itself.

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Remove the sunvisor clip & the sunvisor. The clips are secured by a phillips screw behind a plastic flap accessible by prizing it down with a flathead.

Next you can prize out the interior light, and unscrew the two phillips screws holding it in place. You can then disconnect the cables.

Disconnect the seat belts.

The bolt / seatbelt / washer order is pictured below for reference.

Now you can remove the seatbelt cover trims & the rear boot trims. Apply the same technique again on the rear quarter trim.

The boot parcel shelf trim needs to losened to allow the trim above to be released.

The rear seat belt also needs to be undone. This allows the trim to be removed completely.

All trim should now be free ready for spraying with FOLIA paint (Halfords £5) or Halfords own vinyl die/paint. I recommend strongly against normal spray paints as it scratches far too easily. The headliner will now pull out from the boot.

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Begin by removing the wheel.

Use a screw driver and flip off the retaining clip.

Take off the plastic covers & use a 7mm allen key to remove the bolt, there is one below the one pictured also.

Remove the old pad and insert the new brake pad (the one with no clip attached)

Remove the other side from the caliper and clip in the new one. If you have ABS, you may have to open the bleed nipple (near the brake hose) and push the pad towards the caliper, otherwise, you can push it towards the caliper without any extra steps.

Job done =D, reassemble & pump the brake pedal, allow about 20/30 miles at maximum for them to bed into the discs.

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Start by removing the aerial, it simply unscrews from the base, like so

Basically, we need to keep the end to make sure it still looks pretty much stock, its a pretty small aesthetic modification, but done right can really finish the look of your car. To keep the end, we first put it into a bucket/fryingpan/saucepan of boiling water, this makes the rubber expand around it and allows us, with some force and jiggling about to get it off, put this to one side.

Now we can begin hacksawing, some people prefer to use a knife, but I find that the knife causing tearing on the ends as well as fraying. So, hack saw it is!

Once we have the right size, we can now fit the top back on by dropping it in some boiling water to let it expand then fixing it on the end, again, a lot of jiggling is required.

And there we go, one short ford aerial!

Recommended wipers are available at Halfords for around £25, made by Valeo, they are universal fit and available separately.

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Aero Front Wipers

The rear wiper, in my opinion, it is best to get the Vauxhall smooth wiper from the Astra, again, this is a direct fit, no trimming or cutting neccesary. If you go into a Vauxhall dealership and quote them 93178858 and 93185562 - that is for the arm & wiper blade - approx. £13-14.

Vauxhall Rear Wiper

To begin I had to slice the loom up that should already be there if you have normal/ST/ZS foglights.

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We need a length of wire (around 1m, 24awg), the foglight loom, a pair of wire cutters & a wire stripper, flat head screw driver & 6 junction boxes.

We begin by cutting off the fog light plugs.

Clear some of the casing off and strip the wire.

Attach junction boxes.

Attach 2 junction boxes, one to either end of a 0.5m piece of wire.

Now we need to tap into the sidelight wire, this is what the angel eye operates on - it comes on whether your sidelights are on. The wire is the orange and blue.

It might be easier to remove the foglights, I personally did it with them still in, we have the white, the red & the black. On my ones White - Angels Black - Negative Red - Foglights If you get them mixed up (apart from the black), don't worry, its simply a case of switching it back over if the foglights don't work or vice versa.

Attach the corresponding wires, and there we go, job done - fog lights working as normal & angel eyes with side lights.